To Hakama or not to Hakama...what was the question?

[Mekugi]

Let me introduce the context of this little observation I have made. For a long time (including some of the dojo I have attended) I have heard that Hakama were only meant to be worn by people of high rank. Not too long ago I read a thread (where was that...eesh) about this very same thing. Then again, recently I read a post on one of my Youtube videos for Shinto Ryu Kenjutsu (Fuzoku ryu or Shinto Muso Ryu) which asked why if the gentleman were dressed in white and had no black belt, should they be allowed to wear hakama. This has sparked me to write a little thread on the subject, which answers the question using the approach of the Socratic method.

So let me start off with a pretty good resource, put together by someone who likes to sew: http://www.ee0r.com/proj/jgarb01.html

Hakama are a traditional form of clothing in Japan. That pretty much sums it up, anyone (even sometimes females) could wear them. Sometimes they did represented a rank (usually wealth, or as a gift), but there are so many types of hakama one has to be so specific it is really something left up to historians. I mean, I could look at a hakama and tell it was old, but the fabric, cut, location of the maker (sometimes unidentifiable) and the type of stitching would all have to be looked at and known before the hakama could be judged accurately to make it "of high rank". That being said, there were many merchants that could afford very nice hakama, while the humble low-ranked bushi or samurai would wear simple cloth or very cheap silk that is really impossible to tell who would wear it. Then there is question as to who wore what. For example, farmers would wear something called monpei- available for both male and females that was a tight-knit to the legs style hakama. Now, some farmers were samurai (depending on the era) and some farmers had high rank and could wear nice hakama (and read, possibly write if they were lucky). So this leads one to the idea/notion that a samurai could be wearing monpei in the 1500's while an educated, community leader in a farming community would be wearing a nice silk hakama. The paradox is therefore, never-ending. In training one could be found wearing nothing more than a fundoshi and top, because the hakama was too hard to clean or launder (I forget where this comes from) and thus, kept it from being ruined. This did little to indicate rank and more to due with keeping one's clothes clean.
Seeing this, we enter into the 20th century, and Aikido and the poverty that ravaged Japan. There was an argument somewhere around that the hakama would be worn by higher ranking students, meaning not required to be worn by the lower ranks because they were expensive. Even then, I suspect some of the "higher" ranks had some money problems, as many of the times they would be made out of discarded fabric (especially true during wartime). It seems this is where the idea that high rank is represented by the hakama.... and while this may be true for aikido; this is not true elsewhere unless they adhere to this modern behavior. It is not something that was prominent or representative as the culture, and seems to be part of a school's tradition that spread farther than the actual cultural basis itself.

[Gunyo Kogusoku]

Seeing this, we enter into the 20th century, and Aikido and the poverty that ravaged Japan. There was an argument somewhere around that the hakama would be worn by higher ranking students, meaning not required to be worn by the lower ranks because they were expensive. Even then, I suspect some of the "higher" ranks had some money problems, as many of the times they would be made out of discarded fabric (especially true during wartime). It seems this is where the idea that high rank is represented by the hakama.... and while this may be true for aikido; this is not true elsewhere unless they adhere to this modern behavior. It is not something that was prominent or representative as the culture, and seems to be part of a school's tradition that spread farther than the actual cultural basis itself.

Remember that when aikido/aikibudo was first established, the nyumon criteria was very high - You had to be if I remember what I was told correctly by a student of Usehiba Kisshomaru, a 5th - 6th dan in kendo or judo or both. If you did kendo, you already had some form of hakama.

Also bear in mind that there are some aikido sources that record that Ueshiba Morihei would scold students who didn't bring their hakama to keiko, saying that they shouldn't train only in shitagi (Underwear).

BTW, Happy Birthday for last week mate. :)

[drivica]

Although claiming contacts with Aikikai Honbu Dojo and lineage all the way to Ueshiba, several Aikido organizations in my country have different policy about wearing hakama - in some only yudansha wear them, in other all students can wear them, and in some clubs everyne MUST have one.

As this article is placed in Jujutsu section, and on this forum Jujutsu reffers not only to kory but to gendai as well, I can say that in Europe hardly anyone from thousands of gendai jujutsu clubs and schools wears hakama.

[Bengel]

Ivica is right, but I trained with a gendai school in the UK where the instructors wear hakama:

http://www.jitsufoundation.org/

[Brian Dugger]

I keep one in my training bag. If you have the 'scratch', get one. If the dojo or head instructor doesn't object, wear one. The movement alone in hakama teaches one that there is a different way to move or accomodate changes in the status quo. Folding one is a nightmare, but again it teaches the mind to adapt.

[Bengel]

I've never worn one or, thank God, had to fold one. All I know is that a hakama isn't very usefull for explaining techniques. The sensei in the UK and my aikido teacher here had to pull their 'haks' up almost every other instruction of a technique just so they could show how the footwork was done.

[RA Miller]

Russ-

A related note- almost everyone works out in their founder's underwear. You've explained it with the gi pretty well, but think about it. When basketball was invented the standard underwear was boxers and a tank top. With baseball it was that weird time in history when people wore long-johns to the beach. So even today we have people shooting hoops in 1890's underwear and running around bases in 1820's longjohn/pajamas.

I love this world. It makes me laugh.

It's funny, but the probable connecting thread is that until very recently only the very rich had more than one or two sets of clothes and couldn't afford to get them torn up.

Rory

[Peter Rehse]

You had to be if I remember what I was told correctly by a student of Usehiba Kisshomaru, a 5th - 6th dan in kendo or judo or both.
Sheesh this canard again - total tripe.

Any way

Shodokan Aikido (founded by Tomiki who was not 5th - 6th dan in kendo or judo) it is rare to see someone in hakama. Some university aikido clubs have their students were them during enbu performances but not during training.

Yoshinkan Aikido (founded by Shioda who was also not 5th - 6th dan in kendo or judo) has only instructors were the hakama and then not always.

Yoseikan Aikido (founded by Mochizuki who, you guessed it, was also not 5th - 6th dan in kendo or judo) is similar to Yoshinkan in this respect.

Hakama are a pain to deal with when randori gets physical - I would even say dangerous. I suspect they were not used in Judo for much the same reason and with weapons work the concern just isn't there.

They are considered formal wear - I would say that they are easily discarded if the use becomes to impractical.

I own a very nice one - hate wearing it.

[Keikai]

The only time my sensei Jan de Jong or anyone else wore an hakama was for formal occasions or during sword work. This was usually during gradings. Training ju jutsu with an hakama would be a nightmare. People have enough trouble throw when the stand on feet by acccident; an hakama would get caught much more often. The other aspect is that hakama are not a western style of dress and are not usually worn outside the dojo so defending yourself with one is generally not going to ever be necessary so no need to train with one ofr ju jutsu.

[Peter Rehse]

I'ld like to point out that in the old days one usually didn't change into particular training gear but wore street clothes. The wearing of specialized practice clothing (dogi) was the invention of Kano (once again).

Sure Takeda or [[insert favorite historical figure here]] wore hakama when they trained but only because that is what they normally wore. Increased formality, mystical attributes to creases, all of that is a fairly recent in the grand scheme of things.

[Brian Dugger]

I'ld like to point out that in the old days one usually didn't change into particular training gear but wore street clothes. The wearing of specialized practice clothing (dogi) was the invention of Kano (once again). . .

From what I understand, gis were once short-legged and short sleeved. Due to the training on bound straw tatamis and high incidence of elbow and knee "strawberry" abrasions, Kano developed gis with long legs and sleeves to reduce mat funk and disease. Anybody know a different story?:bow:

[Mekugi]

From what I understand, gis were once short-legged and short sleeved. Due to the training on bound straw tatamis and high incidence of elbow and knee "strawberry" abrasions, Kano developed gis with long legs and sleeves to reduce mat funk and disease. Anybody know a different story?:bow:

It may be true that the longer legs on the pants and sleeves reduced the straw tatami burns and thus we have what we have today. The mother of invention is almost always necessity. Whether or not Dr. Kano was directly responsible for this I do not know. My knees and elbows are torn up, though, and it doesn't seem to work for me :). I have seen older pictures of elementary school Judo and they are wearing their P.E. Uniforms along with ropes tied around the shoulders for "grip". For those that were more serious, it seems they wore the uwagi and shitagi; I do believe (until I find out different) that the uniform was a more "serious" scholastic model.

[Brian Dugger]

. . . I have seen older pictures of elementary school Judo and they are wearing their P.E. Uniforms along with ropes tied around the shoulders for "grip". For those that were more serious, it seems they wore the uwagi and shitagi; I do believe (until I find out different) that the uniform was a more "serious" scholastic model.

I'm having a time trying to visualize that. Are you certain it was for "grip"? Man, that would be seriously uncomfortable doing shime waza. Not to mention explaining the hickies to the significant other or 'howse boss'.

[Mekugi]

I'm having a time trying to visualize that. Are you certain it was for "grip"? Man, that would be seriously uncomfortable doing shime waza. Not to mention explaining the hickies to the significant other or 'howse boss'.

Here...the attached picture will explain better. This is for uchikomi.

[Peter Rehse]

Shakes head.

I like working out with the bicycle inner tubes but I want them attached to a wall.

[Brian Dugger]

Here...the attached picture will explain better. This is for uchikomi.

Thanks, Russ! Was the purpose of this, apart from the "grip", to preserve the integrity of the underwear/training garment?



Shakes head.

I like working out with the bicycle inner tubes but I want them attached to a wall.
:e-lol1: :laugh: :laugh:

[Mekugi]

Thanks, Russ! Was the purpose of this, apart from the "grip", to preserve the integrity of the underwear/training garment?

Yes, I suppose it was to give them a grip on the opponent, to simulate an uwagi, and to keep their taiiku uniform from being ripped off. Remember that Judo was (and still is) part of the physical education system, so they would dress up for P.E. and then just use the ropes. Kind of look like the straps on a $300 leather Japanese book bag (randoseru (http://aaopen.aaps.k12.mi.us/class-pages/jane/images/school/schoolbackpacks.jpg)), don't they?

[Mekugi]

Shakes head.

I like working out with the bicycle inner tubes but I want them attached to a wall.

When this book was published Japan was in "economic ashes". As a matter of fact, the poverty was the very reason that schools developed the uniform system. Many families did not have enough money to pay for clothes for school and so, they were given government issued uniforms- for both in school and for P.E.
Thus, you have the ropes because the uwagi for judo were a big expense and most people could not afford them. If the child progressed and really got into judo, you would have the uniform, many times borrowed. For the most part people were not concerned in having one for basic school P.E.

Today, Japan has kept the uniform system. Furthermore, it has become a BIG business as the required uniforms are more expensive that a nice shirt, tie and black pants. Uwagi remain a business - the only difference is that most people can afford them.

Different times, different attitudes; not a modern perspective for sure!

[Brian Dugger]

Yes, I suppose it was to give them a grip on the opponent, to simulate an uwagi, and to keep their taiiku uniform from being ripped off. Remember that Judo was (and still is) part of the physical education system, so they would dress up for P.E. and then just use the ropes. Kind of look like the straps on a $300 leather Japanese book bag (randoseru (http://aaopen.aaps.k12.mi.us/class-pages/jane/images/school/schoolbackpacks.jpg)), don't they?

Now, these ropes weren't these old coarse things we use to tie up boats and such were they? That would go over like a lead balloon today, if they were.

Back to the subject, I've owned a Bujin hakama for seven or eight years. Are there any others with better construction and quality?

[Mekugi]

Now, these ropes weren't these old coarse things we use to tie up boats and such were they? That would go over like a lead balloon today, if they were.
I dunno, never really thought about it. Probably not. Would not think brine-starched twine would be that comfortable or sanitary, either.


Back to the subject, I've owned a Bujin hakama for seven or eight years. Are there any others with better construction and quality?

Bujin Hakama are very good but they do have equals in Japan. They are about as good as you can get as far as durability of material, though. There are really spendy ones over here- being that they are a common commodity- but for most purposes the Bujin design is very, very good.
To me the Bujin Design bags and wooden weapons are their best items all around. Those are totally unequalled and the craftsmanship is impeccable.